Pisco

Distilled from different grapes in the two countries – Peru and Chile – that produce it, the liquor takes its contested name from the Quechua for little bird and the pottery in which it was aged (but more directly from the name of a coastal Peruvian city where it was produced).

It was first created in the sixteenth century as a consequence of protectionist policies by the Spanish King banning wine from the new world. Nearly all the first pisco came from a new grape variety – Quebranta – which is still the main source of “pisco puro” in Peru today. Peru also produces aromatic, mosto verde and acholado (blended) pisco. It is the blended pisco which is normally used for the national cocktail of the neighbouring countries, pisco sour, which contains lemon or lime, egg whites, syrup and regional bitters as well as the liquor.

In Chile, varieties of Muscat are the most common grape and certain additives are permitted in order to achieve particular alcohol levels. Chilean pisco is not allowed into Peru, which calims proprietorship of the term “pisco” on historical grounds.

Cuy

Guinea pig was domesticated in the Andean region about 7000 years ago. Before you say “aah, cute”, this was obviously for food rather than as pets. The cavia porcellus, which was traditionally primarily part of a ceremonial meal, has increased in popularity over a few decades and as well as still seeing them for sale at festivals, specialist restaurants “cuyerias” can be found. About 65 million are eaten per year in Peru alone. As I am vegetarian, I have had to ask what it tastes like. Something between chicken and lamb has been the only response I`ve had so far.

More interestingly, the guinea pig has been described as an “Andean X-Ray”. It is traditionally rubbed over the head and face of the patient and is then inserted under their clothes. Some people sleep with them close to the body too, and the idea is that illness can be transferred to the poor guinea pig. If the rodent dies, it is thought that it has taken away the sickness. If it survives, it is assumed the malaise remains inside the animal.

Soroche

Why altitude sickness occurs is not understood. It is not because there is less oxygen in the air, as many would assume, and it may actually be the low carbon dioxide levels that cause the problem, since this can lead to an increase in the pH value of one`s blood.

Its effects are not consistent and it has little or nothing to do with fitness. I was fine in the highest city in the world, Potosi (4060m above sea level), but had a nosebleed during the middle of the night in Cusco (3450m). I have had minor head pangs and suffered shortness of breath when walking uphill or upstairs (I am currently on the fourth floor of a hotel at 3800m) but pacing myself can generally sort out this problem.

The worst time for me is at night. Once lying flat, I seem to have difficulty catching my breath. I heat up (taking off layers of clothes at -15 degrees in Uyuni at 4300m) and if I do sleep, wake in starts, usually having dreamt of some form of persecution or other. The only way to prevent a recurrence of the nightmare preceding the head-tossing awakening is to sit up for a while (normally with the computer) as I am doing as I write this.